ランプのシェードを支える部分：すべての部品の名称と説明（2026年）

ランプのシェードを支える部分 と呼ばれています ハープ U字型の金属ブラケットは、ランプソケットに取り付けられたハープサドルに差し込まれ、上部はフィニアルと呼ばれる装飾ネジで固定されます。ハープを使用しないランプでは、シェードは次の三つの方法のいずれかで保持されます：シェードを直接ねじ込むウノソケットリング、電球を挟むクリップオンフィッター、またはシェード本体のねじ付きネックフィッターです。.

箱には明確な名前がありません。曲がったり、なくなったりすると、シェードが傾いたり、ぐらついたり、完全に外れてしまいます。交換しようとしても、「ランプブラケット」「シェードホルダー」「金属のU字のもの」など、どの言葉で探せばよいかわかりません。シェードを支えるランプの部品は「ハープ」と呼ばれ、ハープは四つの部品からなるシステムの一部にすぎません。このガイドでは、すべての部品の名称、それぞれの役割、そしてどの部品がなくなったり壊れたり、または使いたいシェードに合わない場合にどうすればよいかを説明します。.

ハープ — シェードを支えるランプの主要部分

ハープは「ランプのシェードを支える部分は何か？」という問いの中心的な答えです。ハープはU字型の金属ワイヤーブラケットで、通常はスチール製、時には真鍮メッキされています。電球ソケットをまたいで、電球の両側にアーチ状に伸びています。下部では、2本の突起がハープサドルと呼ばれる別の金具にクリップで固定されます。上部では、U字の両側が1つのループで合わさります。シェードのスパイダーフィッターリングはこのループの上に乗り、フィニアルと呼ばれる装飾的なネジがシェードのフィッターリングを通してハープのループにねじ込まれ、すべてを固定します。.

この三つの部品、ハープサドル、ハープ、フィニアルは、日本で販売されているテーブルランプの標準的なシェード保持機構です。 ランプシェードの構造に関するWikipediaの概要, ハープシステムは、20世紀中頃に日本の住宅用照明で主流となり、この市場のテーブルランプでは現在も標準となっていますが、ヨーロッパでは標準にはならず、ウノソケットやダイレクトマウントシステムが主流です。.

ハープの見た目とその仕組み

標準的なテーブルランプを手に取り、ソケットのすぐ上、シェードが乗る部分の下を見てください。もし電球の両側を囲むようにU字型の金属製ブラケットがアーチ状になっているのが見えたら、それがハープです。U字の2本の脚は平行でまっすぐです。それぞれの脚の下端は内側に曲がった小さな突起になっています。その突起は、別の楕円形の金属製金具 ― ハープサドル ― に差し込まれます。ハープサドルはソケット本体に組み込まれている場合もあれば、別途クリップで取り付けられている場合もあります。.

ハープは高さによって販売されています。「7インチハープ」は、サドルスロットの底からトップループまでが7インチ（18cm）です。この高さが、シェードがランプベースの上にどれだけ高く位置するかを決定します。高いハープはシェードを上げ、低いハープはシェードを下げます。適切なハープの高さは、シェードのプロポーションとランプ本体との関係によって決まります。.

シェードを取り外す必要がある場合は、ハープの脚の下部付近を両側から押し合わせ、ハープサドルの切り込みからスライドさせて取り外します。ハープ全体が自由に持ち上がります。シェードとハープは一体となって外れます。トップループからフィニアルをねじって外すと、シェードのスパイダーフィッターリングがハープから解放されます。.

ハープサドル — ハープが差し込まれるソケットクリップ

ハープサドルは、ソケットシェルのすぐ下でランプソケット本体を囲む小さな楕円形の金属部品です。両側にひとつずつ、ハープの下部の爪がはまるための切り込みがあります。サドルがなければハープを固定するものがなく、ハープがなければサドルは使われません。これらは単品でも、「ハープとサドルセット」としても販売されています。“

一部のランプソケットは、サドルがソケット本体の一部として一体化されており、厚みのあるソケットシェルに成形されたノッチがあります。その他のタイプは、ソケットカラーにクリップで取り付ける独立したサドルを使用します。サドルが欠損していて交換する場合は、ソケットを確認してください。成形されたノッチがある場合は、そのノッチにクリップで取り付けるタイプの交換用サドルが必要です。ソケットに滑らかなカラーがある場合は、ソケット本体にクランプで固定する独立したサドルが必要です。.

サドルのノッチの深さと幅はメーカーによって完全には標準化されていません。ほとんどの標準的なサドルはほとんどの標準的なハープに対応していますが、安価なハープや古いサドルではわずかに合わない場合があり、ハープが緩く感じることがあります。どちらかの部品を交換する際は、シェードを取り付ける前にフィット感を確認してください。.

フィニアル — すべてを固定する装飾用ネジ

フィニアルは、ハープのループにねじ込み、シェードのスパイダーフィッターリングを通してシェードを固定する装飾的なトップ部品です。これは、機械的保持（シェードがハープから持ち上がるのを防ぐ）と装飾的仕上げ（ハープのトップループをスタイルされたキャップで覆う）という2つの機能を同時に果たします。.

フィニアル ランプの文脈では、フィニアルはほぼすべてが¼-27規格（直径¼インチ、1インチあたり27山のねじ規格）にねじ切られています。これは日本のランプ業界全体で標準化されている仕様です。つまり、どの標準的な交換用フィニアルも、ブランドに関係なく、どの標準的なハープループにも適合します。フィニアルは真鍮、ニッケル、クローム、ブロンズ、クリスタル、セラミック、そして数十種類の装飾的なデザインがあり、フィニアルを交換することは、他の部分に触れることなくランプの雰囲気を変える最も簡単な方法の一つです。.

フィニアルがない場合でも、シェードはハープの上に乗せることができますが、固定されません。何かに触れるとすぐに外れてしまいます。フィニアルの欠品は、シェードを固定するランプ部品の中で最も簡単に交換できる部分です。「ランプ フィニアル ¼-27」で検索すれば、数百種類の選択肢が見つかります。.

スパイダーフィッター — システムのシェード側部品

ハープは単独では機能しません。シェードを支えるランプの部品には、シェード側にも対応する部品が必要です。それがスパイダーフィッターです。これはシェード上部に組み込まれた金属製の車輪スポークフレームで、通常は三本または四本の放射状アームが中央のリングに接続されています。ハープはこの中央リングを通り、フィニアルが上からリングを通してハープループに固定します。.

スパイダーフィッター付きのシェードは、ハープ付きのランプでのみ使用できます。スパイダーフィッターのないシェード（ウノ、クリップオン、ネジ付きネック取付用に設計されたもの）は、ハープランプには正しく設置できません。ハープが通る部分やフィニアルが固定する部分がないためです。.

スパイダーフィッターがハープに接続する方法

構造を理解すれば取り付けは簡単です。シェードをランプの上に持ち、ハープの上部ループをスパイダーフィッターの中央リングに通します。シェードを下ろしてリングをハープループに乗せます。フィニアルを上からリングに通して、時計回りにハープループにねじ込みます。通常、2～3回転で十分です。フィニアルはしっかり締める必要がありますが、締めすぎるとガラスシェードのフィッターリングが歪む恐れがあります。.

スパイダーフィッターリングは、シェードがまっすぐ吊るされるようにハープループに水平に座る必要があります。取り付け後にシェードが一方向に傾く場合、スパイダーフィッターのアームが少し曲がっているか不均一なことがあります。これは安価な布製シェードによく見られる問題です。アームを優しく水平に戻すことで、ほとんどの場合問題は解決します。.

シェードが傾いたり落ちたりする場合に確認すべきこと

Three failure modes account for nearly every shade that won’t stay put on a harp lamp. First: the finial is missing or insufficiently tightened — the shade rests on the harp but isn’t retained. Second: the harp prongs are not fully seated in the saddle notches — the harp feels secure but shifts under load. Third: the spider fitter ring diameter is too small or too large for the harp loop, so the finial either can’t thread through or engages only a few threads. Check all three before purchasing any new parts.

Lamps Without a Harp — Other Parts That Hold the Shade

The harp is the dominant shade-holding mechanism in North America, but not all lamps use one. Three other systems exist, each with a different part of the lamp holding the shade. Identifying which system your lamp uses is essential before buying any replacement shade — a shade designed for one system won’t work on another.

日本の 照明工学協会 notes that shade-mounting systems were never globally standardized, which is why European and American lamps are often incompatible even when their shade geometries look similar. The system your lamp uses is determined by its country of origin and design era as much as by its style.

Uno Socket — Shade Screws Directly onto the Socket Collar

On a uno-socket lamp, there is no harp. The shade has a single threaded ring (the uno fitter) that screws directly onto a threaded collar on the lamp socket body. The socket itself is the part of the lamp that holds the shade — specifically, the threaded collar that the shade ring engages.

To identify: look at the socket on the lamp. If it has a visible external thread on the socket shell — rather than a smooth socket shell with a separate saddle — it’s a uno socket. Uno sockets are the European standard and appear on imported lamps, pharmacy-style lamps, and many mid-century modern designs. The Edison screw standard defines the thread dimensions that uno fitters are designed to engage: E26 (26 mm) in the US, E27 (27 mm) in Europe — functionally the same in most residential applications.

To replace a shade on a uno lamp, you need a shade with a uno fitter (the single threaded ring). Shades sold for US residential use typically come in spider fitter versions — always check the fitter type before purchasing.

Clip-On Fitter — Shade Clips Directly to the Bulb

On clip-on fitter lamps, neither the socket nor a harp holds the shade — the bulb itself does. The shade has spring clips inside its top opening that grip the bulb body. This system is common on chandeliers, wall sconces, and small decorative table lamps where the socket is too small or inaccessibly positioned for a harp or uno system.

The part of the lamp that holds the shade here is technically the bulb socket (indirectly, because the bulb is what the clips grip), but the real retention force comes from the clip springs in the shade. This means two things: the shade must be light (heavy glass shades are not safe for clip-on applications), and the bulb must be a standard shape the clips can grip (A19 or candelabra-base globes; PAR and BR bulbs don’t work).

Threaded Neck Fitter — Shade Neck Threads onto a Fixture Ring

A threaded neck fitter is the reverse of a uno socket: instead of the socket having the thread, the shade has a threaded neck projecting from its top. This neck screws onto a smooth ring or collar on the lamp or ceiling fixture. Common on ceiling pendants, wall sconces, bathroom vanity fixtures, and some torchieres — less common on table lamps.

The part of the lamp that holds the shade here is the fixture’s mounting ring or collar. To replace the shade, measure the outside diameter of the shade’s neck thread. Standard sizes are 2¼” (57 mm), 3¼” (83 mm), and 4″ (102 mm). The replacement shade’s neck thread must match the fixture ring’s internal diameter.

Full Anatomy of a Table Lamp — Every Part Named

Understanding the full anatomy of a table lamp helps when a part is missing, damaged, or needs describing to a supplier. A complete table lamp has 10 to 12 distinct named components from foot to finial, each with a specific function.

Base, Foot, and Neck / Column — The Structural Parts

日本の base is the main body of the lamp — the ceramic, glass, metal, or wood form that gives the lamp its visual character and provides the structural weight that keeps the lamp from tipping. The foot (or base plate) is the flat bottom surface the lamp stands on, often fitted with felt pads to protect furniture surfaces.

日本の neck or column is the vertical shaft connecting the base body to the socket assembly. On simple column lamps the neck and base are one continuous form; on more complex designs (urn base, ginger jar, figural lamp) the neck may be a separate connecting piece. The harp pipe is a short threaded pipe at the top of the neck where the socket and saddle assembly mounts.

Socket, Socket Saddle, and Harp Saddle — The Functional Core

日本の socket is the electrified bulb holder at the top of the lamp. It consists of the socket shell (the outer metal cylinder), the socket interior (the insulated holder with the contacts), and the socket cap (the threaded base that attaches the socket to the harp pipe). This is where the bulb screws in.

日本の socket saddle (also called harp saddle) is the oval clip that encircles the socket body below the socket shell, providing the two side notches that the harp prongs clip into. On some lamps, this is integral to the socket; on others, it’s a separate clip-on component.

日本の check ring or socket cap is a small ring that threads onto the harp pipe to lock the socket assembly in place and cover the pipe threads. It serves no shade-holding function but is often confused with the harp saddle by first-time lamp restorers.

Cord, Switch, and Plug — The Electrical Parts

日本の lamp cord runs from the socket interior down through the neck and base to the switch (either inline on the cord or integrated into the socket shell) and then to the plug. The strain relief is a rubber or plastic grommet where the cord exits the lamp base, preventing the cord from pulling directly on the socket wiring.

None of these electrical parts are directly involved in the part of a lamp that holds the shade — but they share the socket assembly with the harp saddle, so understanding the full socket area avoids confusion when working on that part of the lamp.

Harp Sizes and How to Choose the Right Replacement

Harps are sold by height — the distance from the bottom of the saddle slot prongs to the top loop where the finial threads in. Standard harp heights run from 4 inches (10 cm) to 12 inches (30 cm), typically in 1-inch increments. The correct harp height keeps the shade’s bottom edge at the right position relative to the lamp base.

The general rule for harp sizing: the bottom of the shade should sit at approximately the same height as the widest point of the lamp base, give or take 2–3 cm. A shade that sits too high exposes the socket and harp; a shade that sits too low makes the lamp look squat and may position the bottom rim too close to the table surface. The harp height controls this positioning.

How to Measure a Harp for Replacement

If the existing harp is still on the lamp (even if bent), measure it before ordering a replacement. Measure from the bottom of the prongs (where they enter the saddle notches) to the top of the loop. This is the nominal harp height. Order the same height or adjust by 1–2 inches to reposition the shade if needed.

If the harp is missing entirely, measure the total lamp height from the foot to the top of the socket. The shade should sit such that its bottom edge aligns approximately with the lamp base’s visual midpoint. Calculate what shade height you want at that position, then work backward: harp height = desired shade-bottom height minus socket height. For most standard residential table lamps with a 20–30 cm base, a 7-inch or 8-inch (18–20 cm) harp is the correct starting point.

Adjustable Harps and Harp Extenders

Adjustable harps have a sliding collar that can be repositioned along the harp legs, changing the effective height by 2–4 inches without replacing the harp. These are useful when the correct exact harp height is unknown or when a slightly non-standard shade height is needed.

Harp extenders (also called harp raisers) are short threaded tubes that thread between the harp saddle and the socket cap, physically raising the entire saddle-harp assembly higher on the lamp. They add 1–3 inches of height and are typically used when the shade sits too low and a longer harp isn’t available.

How to Fix a Lamp When the Shade-Holding Part Is Missing or Broken

Knowing the name of the part of a lamp that holds the shade immediately solves most repair problems — once you know you need a “harp,” “harp saddle,” or “finial,” a five-minute hardware store search or online order gets the part in hand. Here’s the fix for each common failure scenario.

Replacing a Missing Harp and Saddle

A complete harp-and-saddle set — harp, saddle, and finial sold together — costs $3–$12 at hardware stores and online. They’re universally sold this way because replacing just the harp without the saddle often results in a poor fit, and the saddle is small enough to lose at the same time as the harp.

To install: clip the saddle onto the socket body below the socket shell — it squeezes over the socket collar and clicks into the molded notches or clamping points. Then squeeze the harp’s bottom prongs together, align them with the saddle notches, and release — the prongs spring outward into the notches and lock. The harp should not wiggle side-to-side once seated; if it does, the saddle is the wrong size for the socket.

For glass lamp shades on commercial or hotel properties — where harps are replaced frequently and the correct size needs to be standardized — maintaining a small inventory of the correct harp-and-saddle set size eliminates delays. We cover the broader topic of maintaining replacement parts inventory in the hotel lamp shade replacement guide.

Replacing a Bent or Broken Finial

A finial that’s stripped, broken, or simply the wrong style is the easiest part to replace. The ¼-27 thread standard means any replacement finial — regardless of brand or retail source — will fit any standard harp loop. Unscrew the old finial counter-clockwise, screw the new one clockwise until snug. That’s the entire procedure.

When the finial won’t unscrew (corrosion or overtightening), apply a small amount of penetrating oil to the thread junction and let it soak for 30 minutes before trying again. If it still won’t move, grip the harp loop with needle-nose pliers and apply counter-torque — but do this gently, because harp loops are thin metal and will deform under excessive force.

Converting a Harp Lamp to Uno Fitter (Removing the Harp System)

If you want to use a shade with a uno fitter on a lamp currently set up for harp-and-spider, the conversion is straightforward. Remove the harp and saddle entirely. Replace the standard socket with a uno socket (a socket with an external threaded collar). The uno-fitter shade then screws directly onto the uno socket’s threaded collar, and the harp is no longer needed.

Conversion uno sockets cost $5–$15 and install the same way as a standard socket — unscrew the socket cap from the harp pipe, pull the socket out, disconnect the wires, connect the new uno socket’s wires, replace and screw down the socket cap. This is a one-time modification that eliminates the harp hardware permanently.

FAQ — Part of a Lamp That Holds the Shade

What is the part of a lamp called that holds the shade?

The part of a lamp that holds the shade is called the ハープ — a U-shaped metal bracket that clips into a harp saddle on the socket and is topped with a finial screw that locks the shade’s spider fitter ring in place. On lamps without a harp, the shade is held by a uno socket (shade screws onto the socket), a clip-on fitter (shade clips to the bulb), or a threaded neck fitter (shade neck threads onto a fixture ring). The harp system is standard on US/Canadian table lamps; the alternatives are more common on European lamps and ceiling fixtures.

What is a lamp harp?

A lamp harp is the U-shaped metal wire bracket that holds the shade on most table lamps. It has two prongs at the bottom that clip into the harp saddle on the socket, two arching legs that rise on either side of the bulb, and a single loop at the top where the finial screws in to lock the shade’s spider fitter ring. Harps are sold by height (4″–12″) and are replaceable — available at hardware stores, lamp parts suppliers, and online for $3–$12 as a complete harp-and-saddle set.

What is a harp saddle on a lamp?

The harp saddle is the small oval metal clip that encircles the lamp socket body below the socket shell, providing two side notches where the harp’s bottom prongs snap in. Without the saddle, the harp has nothing to anchor to. Saddles are sold separately and in harp-and-saddle sets. Some sockets have the saddle integrated into the socket body; others require a separate clip-on saddle. Saddles are standardized in width to fit most socket collars, though fit quality varies by manufacturer.

What is a finial on a lamp?

A finial is the small decorative screw that threads into the top loop of the harp, passing through the shade’s spider fitter ring to lock the shade in place. It serves both a mechanical function (shade retention) and a decorative one (finishing the top of the lamp). Lamp finials use a standardized ¼-27 thread, meaning any replacement finial fits any standard harp loop regardless of brand. They’re available in dozens of finishes (brass, nickel, chrome, crystal, ceramic) and styles — swapping the finial is the easiest way to refresh a lamp’s look.

How do I know what size harp I need?

Measure the existing harp from the bottom of the prongs to the top of the loop — that’s the nominal harp height, and the replacement should match. If the harp is missing, measure the total lamp height and aim for a shade bottom that sits level with the lamp’s visual midpoint. For most standard residential table lamps with a 20–30 cm base, a 7-inch or 8-inch harp is the correct starting point. Adjustable harps allow a 2–4 inch height range if the exact size is uncertain. Standard harp heights from most suppliers run 4″ to 12″ in 1-inch increments.

What holds the shade on a lamp with no harp?

On lamps without a harp, three alternative systems hold the shade. A uno socket has a threaded collar that the shade’s uno fitter ring screws directly onto — the socket is the part of the lamp that holds the shade. A クリップオンフィッター has spring clips inside the shade top that grip the bulb directly — no socket hardware involved, just the bulb. A threaded neck fitter has an integral neck on the shade that threads onto a ring or collar on the fixture. European lamps and most ceiling fixtures use these systems rather than the harp-and-spider combination common in North America.

Can I add a harp to a lamp that doesn’t have one?

Yes — if the lamp has a standard socket with a socket collar that accepts a harp saddle. Purchase a harp-and-saddle set in the correct height. Clip the saddle onto the socket collar, snap the harp prongs into the saddle notches, and you’ve added a harp to a lamp that previously didn’t have one. The shade must have a spider fitter to work with the harp. If the lamp has a uno socket instead of a standard socket, you’ll also need to replace the socket with a standard socket before adding the saddle and harp.

What is a spider fitter on a lamp shade?

A spider fitter is the metal wheel-spoke frame built into the top of a lamp shade that allows it to mount on a harp. It consists of three or four radiating metal arms connecting to a central ring. The harp passes through this central ring, and the finial threads through the ring from above to clamp it to the harp loop. Without a spider fitter, a shade can’t mount on a harp-style lamp. Shades sold for the US/Canadian market almost always come with a spider fitter as the standard mounting option.

結論

The part of a lamp that holds the shade has a name — harp — and it works as part of a three-piece system: harp saddle (the socket anchor), harp (the U-bracket), and finial (the locking screw). On lamps without a harp, the shade is held by a uno socket, clip-on fitter, or threaded neck, each a self-contained system.

Knowing these names turns a frustrating replacement search into a five-minute parts order. Harp and saddle sets, replacement finials, and alternative socket types are all standard lamp hardware available at hardware stores and specialist lamp parts suppliers. Measure the existing harp height before ordering a replacement, check the fitter type on the shade before buying a new one, and the system goes back together in minutes.

For more on selecting and measuring lamp shades for the right fit, see our complete guide to how to measure a lamp for a new lamp shade.

For hotel and hospitality properties replacing glass shades across hundreds of fixtures, the harp-and-spider specification matters at scale. custom glass lampshades built to hotel lamp specifications are produced to the exact fitter diameter and spider-ring dimensions of your fixtures, ensuring consistent fit and finish across every room without on-site adjustment.